Try the Cape Town CBD’s newly opened eatery Maru Korean Steakhouse, where it’s as much about great bubbles and a vibe as about nuggets, buckets of KFC and supremely seared beef.
At Maru, think part-beautiful people, part-cocktails and dining with a loud lounge vibe. Inside, tables offer window views of cars whizzing by on street level while behind you flames sizzle meats against orange neon lights on dark walls. The catchline: “Where soul meets Seoul”; the interpretation: relaxed Cape Town cool.
It’s an easy collaboration, with bold Asian flavours appealing to South African palates. Located on the old Boma South African site, Maru is the latest establishment to be welcomed into the Bree St bustling business community, wining and dining tourists and local pleasure-seekers with good food, and quite often, cool tracks from a resident DJ.
KOREAN BARBEQUE-STYLE
The PAN Collection Hospitality Group is behind this new arrival, its popular Bree Street restaurants including Scala Pasta Bar, Nikkei Japanese Peruvian, Yatai Ramen Bar, Hacienda Coastal Mexican, and a meatier focus at Iron Steak and Bar and Burger & Lobster.
Maru’s meat is cooked and cut at the table in traditional Korean barbeque-style, but consulting chef Rikku Ó'Donnchü explains that unlike the usual cook-it-yourself Korean scenario of mini-grills at tables, here everything is seared by Maru’s chefs at a grill station where you can take a high stool to watch.
“This is a luxury service, so when it comes to your table, you don’t have to grill and turn it yourself, we’re going to take that pressure off you,” Ó'Donnchü says.
SQ Design used bold graphics and modern “Seoul” neon signage alongside warmer timeless textures in calmer tones. Burnt-orange booths and subdued sunset tones contrast against charcoal and black walls and ceilings, with lighter wood elements adding an organic feel. Maru’s interior space works well for tables of two and also for bigger groups of friends sharing drinks or plates.
The menu focus is on two key ingredients: good meat, and free-range, hormone-free chickens.
GOLDEN NUGGETS
If you’re feeling flush, try the tasty Golden Nuggets morsels that everyone is talking about. The menu suggests you should “forget everything you need to know about chicken nuggets” when ordering these babies (including their more usual price point). At Maru, an “18 karat” single nugget topped with trout roe costs R169, the “24 karat” with caviar is R345 (both tender and tasty, but caviar has the edge with its distinctive saltiness). I haven’t been lucky enough to try it, but the Black Gold single nugget topped with black truffle shavings will knock you back R399.
Have the Golden Nuggets been controversial? Are there many takers for Black Gold? I asked group chef Justin Barker how they’ve been received so far. “The Golden Nuggets have definitely sparked conversation, which we expected,” he replies. “The idea was always to create something playful, premium and a bit disruptive.”
Barker says feedback has been largely positive. “Guests are intrigued by the concept. The Black Gold truffle nugget is more of a luxury add-on, so while not something people order in high volumes, we’ve had a steady number of takers, and the response from those guests has been very good.”
If you’re wanting to get properly stuck in, Maru’s speciality is a bucket of crispy Korean Fried Chicken pieces, served with four squeeze bottles of tangy, herby and creamy sauces (don’t miss the fermented gochujang) for dipping into. Colonel Sanders has nothing on this KFC. It’s a supremely tasty, moreish, grab-with-your-hands option, made even better because there’s no frying in trans fats, and a rice flour batter makes the “bucket of chicken” lighter, crispier and gluten-free.
“It’s one of those dishes that hits both comfort and flavour. The four-sauce setup really lets guests customise the experience,” says Barker. It’s already a crowd favourite.
BUBBLES ARE BETTER
Aside from good Cap Classique brands, Maru’s wine list features a selection of vintage and good Champagne labels from Moët to Krug, plus signature local wines. If you're feeling adventurous, the attractive bar is stocked with beers and spirits, including an expansive soju (Korea’s rice-distilled spirit) collection.
The menu focus explains why Maru offers a “Better Bubbles” pairing of Champagne and chicken. Bubbly just works well with poultry, clean acidity cutting nicely through crisply fried chicken richness...
The PAN team knows a thing or two about successful steakhouses and burgers too, so what should a red-meat fan order? The KBBQ Meat Feast is the easiest option – the chef’s choice of four premium beef cuts, including wagyu, flat-iron steak, and wagyu short rib prepared as Korean galbi.
A range of wagyu cuts are on the à la carte menu, so there are “upgrade options” beyond what is in the feast. Outlining the differences, Barker says the feast gives a diner a curated mix with some wagyu included, whereas à la carte offers “the full wagyu experience for those who want to go deeper”.
Textural elements to keep a diner’s interest on all those circulating small plates include a scallion salad with mixed greens and chilli-laced gochugaru vinaigrette. Or the ban-chan vegetable pickles – bowls of sliced or diced pickled things served with the KBBQ Meat Feast – beautifully umami morsels of flavour and crunch.
Lastly, after those strong Asian savoury flavours, there is nothing quite as satisfying as a cup of dreamy, creamy Maru vanilla soft serve to finish, drizzled with salty soy caramel. The best.
Maru Korean Restaurant
107 Bree St | 021 109 0039
www.maru.co.za | @maru__za
Maru is open from 15h00. Saturday Buckets & Bubbles: 12h00-16h00, resident DJ; complimentary bottle of Zardetto Prosecco with a bucket of Korean Fried Chicken Set Menu (one per two guests, Ts & Cs apply). Maru Magic Hour: Daily from 16h00-17h30, half price on selected bubbles by the glass, wine and beer on tap; Korean-style bar snacks at R95 each.
IMAGES: Jacques Mollentze, CCID